Happy New Year, everyone!
I’ve just wrapped up another holiday season in Hong Kong, returning to the same house-sit I enjoyed two years ago. Knowing exactly what to expect didn’t make it any less impressive; I once again found myself in a luxury condo in one of the city’s most desirable districts.
Life at The J Residences
The J Residences is a sleek, 43-story tower in the heart of Wan Chai. I’ve been perched on the 31st floor in a two-bedroom apartment with a stunning view of the mountains. What makes this stay particularly “unique” is that the second bedroom is strictly for the locals: Eli the dog and his two feline sisters, Jax and Chairman Meow.
The building boasts a rooftop deck, lounge, gym, and sauna. If I weren’t pet-sitting, a hotel with these amenities would easily cost more than two months of luxury living in Thailand. My “rent” is simple: clean the litter box, feed the crew twice a day, and take Eli for his walks.
Navigating the Concrete Jungle
Walking a dog in one of the most densely populated places on Earth is an art form. The sidewalks are narrow and the crowds are relentless, but I’ve mastered the art of “daisy-chaining” back alleys to find a bit of peace.
Just a few blocks away, the terrain turns vertical. A massive mountain shoots up from the city floor, covered in an endless cascade of stone stairs. While these inclines deter most tourists, they are the natural habitat of 80-year-old local women who power up them with a speed that puts most gym athletes to shame!
Quirky Fact: Wan Chai actually means “Cove” in Cantonese. Hard to imagine now, but the area I’m walking Eli in was once entirely underwater before massive land reclamation projects began in the mid-19th century.
The Magic of the Octopus Card
Hong Kong is a masterclass in efficiency. I’m still enamored with the Octopus Card. This single transit pass handles everything: buses, the MTR (metro), ferries, and even my morning coffee. It even doubles as my building access key. China is miles ahead of the West in creating a seamless, cashless society; even the humblest street food stalls expect a tap of your card.
Island Hopping
While one side of Hong Kong Island is a bustling neon metropolis, the other is a lush nature preserve with pristine beaches. This year, I pushed further afield to the outlying islands:
- Po Toi: Almost entirely uninhabited and ruggedly beautiful. I spent the day circumnavigating the island on a coastal hiking trail.
- Lamma Island: A “hipster” getaway with a wonderful mix of coffee shops and seafood shacks. The best way to see it is the “cross-island hike”—take the ferry to one side, walk the trail to the other, and catch a different ferry home.
- Cheung Chau: This reminded me of a miniature, island version of San Francisco. It’s a maze of steep hillsides, crowded houses, and incredible seafood restaurants.
New Year’s Traditions And Tricks
My social calendar was full thanks to my friend Jemima. She is the “hub” of our local community, and her tiny apartment became our holiday headquarters. We squeezed in for a traditional Christmas turkey dinner with all the fixings, and despite the tight quarters, the room felt massive once we started sharing stories, playing games and building gingerbread houses. Interestingly, even in 2026, the “gender roles” emerged naturally as the men obsessed over the structural integrity of the walls while the women focused on the artistry of the icing!
New Year’s Eve itself was more somber. The city canceled the fireworks out of respect for the victims of last month’s tragic high-rise fire. Eschewing the overpriced parties, I took the “sensible older adult” route: I stayed in, got a full night’s sleep, and started 2026 with a sunrise hike.
I wasn’t the only one finding an alternative way to celebrate. Though she was in Portland, Joan celebrated on East Coast time so she could be finished by 9:00 p.m. My sister Catherine was also ingenious: by heading to a British pub, she celebrated the New Year at 4:00 p.m. local time!
“Filipino Sundays”
However, one of my favorite local traditions is what I call Filipino Sundays. Every Sunday, the city’s service workers—most of whom are from the Philippines—gather to celebrate their one day off.
Every sidewalk, park, and overpass is transformed by a sea of pop-up tents. It’s a vibrant, city-wide block party where thousands of women gather to play cards, nap, sing karaoke, do each other’s nails, and even barbecue. To a first-time visitor, it might look like a massive homeless encampment, but by Sunday evening, the tents vanish and everything is cleaned to a shine. This holiday season, they were gifted two extra days off for Christmas and New Year’s, and I think theirs were the best celebrations of all.
Quirky Fact: This tradition started because many domestic workers live in their employers’ small apartments. Sunday is their legal day of rest, so they take to the public spaces to create a “living room” of their own in the heart of the city.
The Next Adventure: The China Loophole
On Sunday, my hosts return and I head toward mainland China. I don’t have a standard visa, but I’m testing a fascinating “transit loophole.” If you enter from one “region” and depart to a different country within 240 hours, you can travel visa-free. Since the Chinese government treats Hong Kong as a separate entity for travel purposes, I’ll enter from here and depart to Laos.
My goal? To get a taste of China and ride the high-speed rail link from Shenzhen all the way to the Laotian capital, Vientiane. It’s a bold plan, but I have a backup in place just in case the border guards aren’t as excited about my itinerary as I am.
Wish me luck—I’ll let you know from the tracks if I made it!