While the news was busy spinning tales of unrest, the only thing truly on fire this week was our personal chef. Chef Oscar treated us to three Mexican inspired meals a day. From seafood, the local specialty, to steak prepared arrachera style, it was a week of gluttony that had us all taking photos of our meals and talking about joining Weight Watchers—though we planned to earn it.
TV vs. Reality
On our drive to the villa, we did spot a few burned-out storefronts—the lingering signatures of last week’s drama. But as my local friends had reported, the city hadn’t just survived; it had moved on. We spent several days exploring the shops and cobblestone streets of town, finding the same vibrant Puerto Vallarta I’ve always known. The “unrest” felt miles away once we reached our sanctuary just south of town.
Living like the other half lives
This was the second year in a row tha Oregon West Excursions has rented a 10-room mansion perched on the cliffs above Bahía de Banderas (the Bay of Flags). From the patio, the view is a constant theater of activity. We watched whales and dolphins breach in the distance, while dozens of brown pelicans—often called the Mexican Air Force—patrolled the coastline at eye level.
Life at the villa was an immersive experience in how the world’s elite live. If we weren’t soaking in the hot tub or swimming in the pool, we were being looked after by Alex, our personal bartender, who made sure we never saw the bottoms of our glasses. In fact the entire staff operated like a professional sports team, and we had only to express a wish before it was fulfilled. What a rare, once-in-a-lifetime look at a life of absolute leisure. Joan has joked about branding the tours as “Go go, Slow go, and No go” This trip was certainly the model for the latter designation.
Shrubs and Sashimi
Lest you think we deteriorated into the humans from the movie Wall-E, floating in hovering recliners, I’ll share that we did manage to depart the compound for daily adventures. One day, we trekked through the Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens, a lush maze of tropical flora with trails that lead all the way down to the river. Lunch was at the garden’s restaurant overlooking the gardens while hummingbirds danced between hanging flowerpots above our heads.
One afternoon, a few members of the group went sport fishing and returned with a haul that Chef Oscar transformed into fresh sashimi. I’ve always been a bit skeptical of raw fish, but watching a master sushi chef (Oscar’s “side hustle” in Old Town) slice it up right in front of you changes your perspective.
The 3000 foot deep aquarium
While the whales were a bit more elusive from our perch this year, we headed out on a tour to find the humpback whales that call this bay their winter home. I learned a fascinating bit of geography: the reason the whales love this spot—and why you can go deep-sea fishing just a few hundred yards from the shore—is that the bay drops to an astonishing 3,000 feet in depth. It’s a literal underwater canyon right at our doorstep.
We also had beach access below the villa. After last year’s “rogue wave” incident that sent a guest to the hospital, I was relieved to find the Pacific true to its name this week. The waves were calm, allowing us to watch the pelicans dive-bomb for their dinner right off the shoreline without any medical drama.
The “Travel Club” Spirit
The real highlight of our experience, as always, was the people. One guest asked me if all our groups were this friendly. The truth is, Oregon West feels less like a tour company and more like a travel club. By day three, people were already checking each other’s schedules to see which upcoming trips they could book together. The camaraderie is infectious; it’s hard not to make friends when you’re sharing a sunset and a tray of Oscar’s appetizers.
The Heart of Vallarta
Like my trip to Asia, all good things must come to an end, and we head back to Portland tomorrow. For our final act, we’re heading to the Malecón, the mile-long boardwalk that serves as the city’s pulse. Seeing the families, the tourists, and the street performers in full swing is the ultimate proof of resilience. The drama of last week is a memory; the heart of Vallarta is very much alive.
